August 24

August 24:  Les Contamines to Refuge des Mottets

This path serves as the high route alternative between Les Contamines and the Refuge des Mottets.  It crosses three cols, each one slightly higher than the last, before finally descending into the Vallee des Glaciers.  

Today starts gently with a pleasant stretch heading south through the wooded Montjoie Valley beside the rushing Bon Nant Torrent.  As the valley begins to constrict around you the only way out is up and over, and thus begins the long climb up to the first col of the day, Col du Bonhomme.  

After Col du Bonhomme the climbing continues up to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, and from there up to Col des Fours, with no descent to allow you to catch your breath in between.  However, from each col, you can expect your efforts to be rewarded with splendid views; take a moment to look behind and trace how far you have come and how much height you have gained before gazing into the next valley which unfurls tantalizingly before you.  From Col des Fours, the long-awaited descent will bring you into the Vallee des Glacieres, finishing at the enchanting setting of Refuge des Mottets.

20.7 km.  1615m up.  911m down.

No internet at the Refuge tonight, so will post later.

What a fabulous day that was!  Great weather and wonderful views.  As I sit down to write this, I have a hard time believing it's only day 2 of the hike.

Big day today so we started out early (7:30).  Gary is almost ready to go, but given the effort required today and the fact that we're pretty remote both today and tomorrow, he (wisely) decided to go back to Chamonix tonight and meet us in Courmayeur tomorrow night.

The first 3.7 km to Notre Dame de la Gorge was pretty mellow.  Notre Dame de la Gorge:  Since 1699 this small chapel with an ornate painted facade has marked the end of the road and the start of the mountain trails.  Over the years many travellers have entered to pray for a safe passage over the Col du Bonhomme.

At that point we started going up, up, up.  Passed this Roman bridge (and gorge) at about 5km, and kept going up.  Pont Romain:  A bridge built by the Romans.

The views certainly improved as we exited the forest.

The sound of cowbells (and goat bells) was with us from time to time.

The path up to the first col (Col du Bonhomme) stretched out before us.  There was a steady stream of hikers, but no large commercial groups like yesterday.  

Just a couple of refuges along the way today.  We didn't stop at any.

Between the Macs app (which has been excellent) and the well-marked trail, it makes for pretty easy route-finding.

The views back down the valley were worth turning around for.

My two hiking companions making good time ahead of me.

The col comes into view.

And our first snow-covered peak of the day.  And yes - people do mountain bike the route.  Yikes!

Lise and I at the first col.  And Pat already having a snack by the time I arrived.

Next destination - Col de la Croix du Bonhomme.  We'll be there in less than an hour, apparently.  Despite my slow pace, we generally still beat the time estimates posted on the signs.

I loved the views along this stretch.  Lost of trails everywhere you look.

We met a couple of young ladies from Texas who took our picture.  They have a friend running the UTMB next weekend.

Next up - Col de la Croix du Bonhomme.  We had lunch here and then Pat left us as he went down to Les Chapieux to catch a shuttle to his accommodation.  Lise and I kept going up - to Col des Fours.  At 2685m, this will be our highest elevation of the entire trip.

There was a little rock shelter at the very top but our trail went just below it.

Nice views all the way down too.  We saw different aspects of Aiguilles des Glacieres just about the entire way.

There were some pretty interesting rock formations and creeks.

Down, down, down into Ville des Glacieres, a hard left, and a final gentle uphill to the beautiful oasis of Refuge des Mottets.  It really is a lovely (but rustic) spot.  A beverage on the patio for each of us and we then checked into our private room.

Refuge des Mottets:  Like many buildings in the Vallee des Glacieres, Refuge des Mottets was once a dairy farm; the long, thin dormitory building which is today crowded with walkers would once have been filleld with cows.  The dining room is filled with relics of its agricultural past.  The refuge is set against the stunning backdrop of the Aiguille de Glacieres. 

The dining hall was packed for dinner.  I don't think there are that many rooms, but the dormitory holds a bunch I guess, and perhaps some campers got in for dinner.

The shower was 'interesting'.  Two second spurts of water at fluctuating temperatures.  I wasn't in there for a long time, but it was enough to get clean.

Time for bed, and then let's do it all over again tomorrow.  

Gary has had a cold for a few days and now Lise is sniffling.  I think I know my fate.......