August 26

August 26:  La Visaille to Courmayeur

After a bus drops you back to the trail there's a little backtracking on yesterday's route before you begin breaking a fresh and increasingly scenic path overlooking Mont Blanc's southern face.  Although this walk is mostly downhill, there is still a significant climb of around 800 metres to reach the 'balcony'.  'Balcony' is a good way to describe the footpath which remains mostly flat, hugging the exposed, steep southern slopes of Val Veni.  On the far side of the valley captivating views of Mont Blanc's jagged southern peaks and of the glaciers de Bruillard and de Freney which appear as if they might slide from their precarious slant at any moment.  Your gaze is sure to be turned left, digesting this veritable feast for the eyes.  

Courmayeur marks the low point of the trip since leaving Les Houches and therefore your first glimpse of it will be from high above, with a long descent and endless switchbacks required to reach it.  

15.4 km.  830m up.  1274m down.

We lucked out with the weather again today.  Breakfast at 7:30; it was by far the best one yet.  Then to the bus stop by about 8:30 for an 8:45 bus.  We were not alone; I don't think they could have crammed one more person on that bus.  Once on our feet again, the first 2.8km was retracing the last part of yesterday's hike.  Funny how none of us really noted yesterday just how much downhill we were doing, but we were all aware of today's uphill!  Not a lot of views along this section, but we were walking beside a lovely rushing creek/river and some nice trees in places.  

Where we crossed the river just before heading uphill we could see the hut where we had lunch yesterday.  We also got nice aerial views of the the Rifugio Combal. 

Yes, it was a bit of a grunt to climb the 800m, but the views were fabulous.  I enjoyed every minute of it.  I am definitely the slowest of the group by far, but the others kindly wait for me here and there.  Oh - and we are a group of four now.  Gary joined us today and seems like he is pretty much healed up.

It was interesting to see all the markers for the upcoming UTMB.  I'll fill in more details later (or in later posts), but I'm obsessed with the race and all the associated races.  1760 runners doing the UTMB!  There was a 'minor' race held here in Courmayeur today - 15km and 1200m of elevation gain/loss.  The second place finisher just happened to be having dinner at the table beside us today.  He finished with a time of 1 hour and 22 minutes; yikes!  On top of the pure numbers is the fact that the footing in places is rather challenging, to say the least..........

Once at the high point of today's hike, we found another UTMB aid station that had been dropped by helicopter earlier this week.  Great views down the valley from there.

We then had a bit of an open, flattish walk for a bit; very nice.

We passed a few ski slopes (with lots of snow-making equipment).  

Thankfully we didn't have to climb up to this hut......

The cows had a nice location and seemed to be very well fed.

The great views continued for a while before we re-entered some forest.  This place must be gorgeous in the fall when the larches turn.

We came to Refuge Vielle at Col Checrouit but didn't stop, although the place was hopping with people enjoying food and beverages on the patios.

The next refuge (Rifugio Le Randonneur) was just 10 minutes away.  We had second (picnic) lunch there and then began a steep 800m of downhill.  My knee was not thrilled, but I went ever-so-slowly, and will live to hike another day.

On the way down we passed through a "fun park" which included a mountain bike area for kids.  This little one is riding a magic carpet back up the hill.  

We also passed through the hamlet of Dolonne, just before reaching Courmayeur and which is physically separated by the Dora Baltea River.  This hamlet has retained its character, and you will stroll on cobbled streets scarcely wide enough for one car to pass through, let alone two.  The houses are constructed in typical alpine style from wood and stone, and you might even stumble across an old wash house or communal bread oven, dating to the village's historic roots.

We largely followed the UTMB markers into town and found our hotels.  Another great day.  Nice dinner and that's another wrap.  Tomorrow is supposed to be a rest day, but the weather forecast looks marginally better than Thursday, so we may switch up the days.

Again - really really slow internet; too slow to post any pictures.